Monday, November 05, 2007

Happy Independence Day Antigua …


Antigua and Barbuda’s 26th Independence Anniversary celebrations came to a close last week, a time of year in which numerous culturally vibrant activities take place, culminating on November 1st - Independence Day.

November 1st is a very significant Day for Antiguans and Barbudan’s because it signifies the day that 'we’ broke away from British colonial rule. On that momentous day in 1981 the people of Antigua and Barbuda made the decision to chart their destiny as an independent nation.

Over the past twenty-six years, Antiguans have come together to celebrate annually, our cultural identity, our past and ancestors, but more importantly, our freedom.


Among this years Independence offerings was a Food Fair, in which a variety of culinary customs and traditions were demonstrated, showing how to make traditional local dishes, like the chatta dumpling, or bamboola.


There was also the fourth Annual Homecoming Queen Pageant, in which twenty young ladies from Antigua and five from Barbuda were selected to compete for the coveted title, now held by Sybil Ramrattan, the new 2007 Independence Homecoming Queen.


There was a Calypso and Awards Night, held at the Royal Antiguan Hotel which saw Leston “Young Destroyer” Jacobs, take home the award for Calypso of the Year and as well as one for Best Social Commentary. Calypso has been a powerful vehicle in Antigua and the West Indies, conveying the thoughts of local storytellers for the past century.

In fact, the year 1956 saw the Mighty Sparrow burst onto the scene taking the calypso world by storm with his legendary hit Jean and Dinah. Jean and Dinah, which celebrated the departure of US troops from Trinidad, ushered in a new era of politically charged calypso.

Having done some research, by most accounts, this politicized form of calypso helped facilitate Trinidad's independence from Britain in 1962. It is safe to say that socially and politically conscious calypso has had a major influence on many of Antigua and Barbuda’s social and political movements as well.

Despite the excitement of all these activities, I have to admit that for the most part, I observered from afar. I had two days off this week and nothing was going to stop me from taking advantage of the wind, by going for a kite surf!

After months of no wind, finally it was a steady 20knots. While people celebrated their Independence parading around town, a few of us celebrated with an afternoon session at Green Island. Stoked!


Annabel Fuller

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Quiet October days…



If you live in Antigua, and you are planning a trip abroad, October definitely seems to be the month to do it. I’m one of the few people in my circle of friends on island right now, and as circumstances have it, I’m filling in for Eli while he’s away.

I like to think I’m not one to sit at home and complain about the quiet times. In fact, when things get quiet here, I tend to look deeper into Antigua to find adventures that in busy times, I would not get to do.

Along with a friend, I’ve taken myself to Windward beach in English Harbour for the past two Sundays. It’s lush down there right now, inaccessible to anyone wanting a quick dip. Like many beaches in Antigua, there is a marshy mangrove swamp behind the beach, and with all the rain we’ve been getting recently, the usual route to the beach is underwater.


This didn’t matter though; it just confirmed to us that we would most likely have the beach to ourselves. Determined, we walked through a bush trail to the left of the swamp. The trail meanders initially through gnarled cassi trees but in no time, a thick wall of sea grape trees form, creating the back drop behind the southerly facing, secluded bay.


It’s something mystical; to wander through a shaded, tunnel-like sandy path, surrounded by sea grapes, and eventually burst out through a key-hole opening onto an empty beach, to see Montserrat on the horizon and the deep cobalt of the sea, contrasting the rocky hues of the left point.


Needless to say, time was of the essence, and I was overheating. We had come to snorkel this bay for the first time. I was hoping to find life under the calm water, something that these days, is hard to find in Antigua.


Instant relief!! It felt like I was downing a cold glass of water as I submerged myself into the water just off the left point. Finally I was underwater, and to my surprise, there were fish, lots of fish. There was even live reef and lots of live sponges. The water was crystal clear and the clatter of fish and sea life was really refreshing.

It is beaches like these I search for these days, at a time when our local beaches are succumbing to the pressure of our tourist industry and the negative impact of development, which is slowly but most definitely depleting our tropical beach ecosystems. It is hard to find a beach in Antigua these days, which feels untouched. Despite the state of our beaches and reefs, and the dwindling fish populations, this time, on this quiet Sunday I felt a glimmer of hope, as I snorkeled around the point.


Back to the beach, satisfied and with a few shells in hand, it was time to make a move. What could be better after a snorkel then a fresh tall latte, or two, at Sea Breeze! These days, with work, I try to squeeze as much as possible into my days off, and this Sunday was no exception.

Who knows what surprises the next quiet October Sunday will hold!

Annabel Fuller





Monday, October 22, 2007

not the best end to a fishing tournament

The black smoke we saw as i powered up to head into Nevis was not good at all. My engines don't smoke and i knew immediately that we were in for problems. Upon opening the engine hatch we saw oil in the bilge and quite a bit on the air filter. Out there in the rough sea and no cell phone communication with my mechanics, i knew that we would have to make do with the one engine. We had 90 minutes to be back in Nevis which was going to be impossible, so we pondered the choices. If we limped into Nevis on the one engine we would be disqualified from the competition for coming in too late. We would then have to limp even further back to Antigua the next day. Since the customs and immigration had cleared us in and out the night before we didn't have to return to Nevis at all. This wasn't what we wanted at all, but was probably the most sensible thing to do.
I walked back the helm and made a 90 degree turn towards my GPS point at Jolly Harbour. I didn't want to push the starboard engine in these seas and kept the RPMs at a moderate level. We were doing 7.5 knots and would be in Port in about four hours. Its funny how things can turn out sometimes. Simple things we worry about so much like the lost wahoo earlier in the day can end up being of no real consequence. The seas seemed to get rougher and we took a few over the bow sending torrents of water over the deck and out the stern. Poor Chris was not feeling well at all and as the water poured over the deck and his lifeless body, i couldn't help feel bad for him.
We finally got back into Jolly Harbour in the dark and set about cleaning the boat and getting rid of our fish. Cocos Hotel wanted the fish that had been sitting on ice since we had caught it. The total weight was over 100 lbs and we would have won the Dolphin (mahi mahi) prize and finished in the top 5 in the wahoo division.
The next morning Val, one of our newest crew members, started preparing the engine to be taken out first thing Monday morning. We had a spare engine and just needed to swap some parts over before we put it into the boat. Thanks to some very long hours put in by Tony, Val and Tom and his crew at Antigua Marine Services we were able to be back up and running on Wednesday. We had some cruise ship guests on our tours that day who wouldn't have been able to re-schedule so it all worked out very well. Tom said that the other engine looked as if it had an issue with a piston ring or something. Anyway, that one will be fixed now and ready for the next problem. There is one thing that is as sure as sunshine in Antigua and that is the reality of boat problems. Its not a matter of if a boat will have problems... its a matter of when. Having boats with more than one engine is essential and then having spare engines (which we have for both the Eco boat and the Xtreme boat) is a huge benefit.


For now, tours are running well and although i am off on holiday at the moment myself, i am already thinking of a strategy for our next fishing adventure. When i get back to Antigua we will have a week before our next tournament this time from our home port of Jolly Harbour.

Friday, October 19, 2007

nevis fishing part 2

Blackness was ended with some grey accented by tiny shreds of pink off to our right. Finally we could see how rough it actually was, but it was the end of our trip out to the fishing grounds. We slowed to put the lines into the water and the guys were happy to finally get the baits in the water instead of fouling the air. Unlike the past few Nevis tournaments the action started off slowly. We fished for over an hour without a strike and we were starting to get a little anxious when we saw some frigate birds feeding off ahead. As soon as we got close to the feeding birds, we had 3 good strikes. Two held and the boys sprang into action clearing the lines and bringing in the others. The first dolphin (mahi-mahi) came to the boat quickly while Acare's one fought extremely hard. We realised that it was a bull dolphin when it got close enough. It looked big and once on board we were all in a good mood. Surely nobody would get a dolphin larger than that one. Two fish in the box, but this was a wahoo tournament and we were still without the target fish. We found the birds again and went up on top of the shallow bank trying to see if we could catch more dolphin. Suddenly the ratchet from one of the top lines started screaming an i knew we had something good on the end. One of the boys had on the fighting belt and was locked into the fish in no time. As it got closer, Big John confirmed it was a nice wahoo which he gaffed and put in the box. We were on our way! It was a strange stike as wahoo usually hung out on the steep edge of the continental shelf. This was in about 400 feet of water way up on the bank away from the edge which made it difficult to locate the right spot. We fished and fished and didn't locate any more. We travelled for miles along the edge of the bank without any more action. IT was slow and the boys were getting sleepy. We had a few small strikes landing a few little tuna and barracuda which we released alive. No more wahoo though which sucked because this time last year we had about 8 good fish on board. There was a little sea mount 2 miles off where the water went from about 5 thousand feet deep up to a pinnacle of about 250 feet. We fished for a while there without any action and then had a tripple strike. All the crew jumped into gear, but unfortunately we only managed to save one fish. This was another nice wahoo. I marked the spot on my GPS plotter and retraced back over the exact area a few times. On our fourth pass Roddy's rod started making a hellish noise as line was stripped off at an amazing rate. Wahoos have to be the fastest animals in the world. They are the speed deamons of the deep and try to destroy your fishing gear when they make their first run. Roddy was strapped into the belt and was ready to fight this big wahoo. It slowed for just a second before changing gears for an even faster run. Line vanished from the reel and then.... it went slack.... We were all distraught as if our prize fighter had been beaten in the first round. I told the gang to get back into gear as there was another big one out there with our name on it. IT took another two hours before we had another strike. The fishing wasn't just slow for us. I was speaking with my Dad who wasn't catching much either. The other boats were having similar luck too and the VHF radio communication wasn't that active. In order to be back in port by 3:30 we had t leave the bank at about 2 pm to be safe. At 1:50 pm i told the crew we had 10 minutes left. A second later our 30 lb test rod (our weakest link) got a nice strike. Line was violently stripped and we knew we had a wahoo on the line. This was exciting as i knew the other boats didn't have much fish. This could put us in the winning circle. Big John had the gaff in his hand as the wahoo came to the back of the boat without much of a struggle. He reached out with his right hand to gaff it, his left hand holding the thin 30 lb test double line. As if the wahoo knew what was about to happen, it made a final sharp turn and darted away from the boat. The thin line in Johns hand broke before he had a chance to let it go, and we watched the happy wahoo vanish into the dark blue. This time next year it could be 40 lbs heavier as they are some of the fastest growing fish in the ocean. John was the most upset and sat alone at the back of the boat as the crew prepared the boat for the run back to Nevis for the weigh in. I powered up and took the RPMs up towards 3000 which is our typical cruise speed. I glanced back at John to give him a smile. "%^it happens". He was gonna be ok, but hold on a second.... what was that behind him? Black smoke! Something else wasn't going to be alright.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

overdue weekend fishing report part 1

As you know from reading my last blogs, we left Antigua for the Nevis Fishing Tournament after the eco tour on Friday.
Customs and Immigration in Nevis were stationed at the tournament headquarters to check in all the foreign boats up until 6 pm. I had emailed them the day before to let them know that we would be a little late, and had even given my Dad our clearance docs and passports to take down a few hours before on his boat Blue Rapid.
We were running later than expected and as the sun set half way between Antigua and Nevis with our rum and cokes slipping down as was the sun, i was a little worried about how late we were.

The seas were rough but behind us though which was good and the setting sun relaxed us just a bit. Maybe it was the rum and cokes.
Using our chart plotter we flew through the barrier reef in the darkness on the North side of Nevis heading as fast as we could for the port. As we tied up I was ushered to finish clearing in. I expected sour unhappy officials, but was met with smiles and pleasant attitude bearing customs and immigration officials. An hour later we were having burgers and planning our early morning trip off-shore. It was windy and back on the boat we knew that we better get some good rest for the 24 mile trip which was going to start just after 3 am. In tournaments, we believe that we have to try our hardest. Lines were permitted to be in the water at 5 am and we wanted to be at the proper spot at that time. Going out through the reef in the darkness we could feel the waves beneath us pushing the boat up and down and from side to side. There were six of us and by the time Big John started baiting up four of the crew were green with "bad feeling". Getting sea sick is possible in the day when its rough out in the open ocean, but at night when you cant see the horizon or waves, and the boat just moves in all directions that you can't possible foresee its tough. Then when that lovely smell of ballyhoo is added to the equation with a slight exhaust fume here and there for good measure, someone is going to "goto new yourk" (a.k.a puke). Why "new yourk". Say it but with the "yourk" part elongated and a little loud and you can see why we call it going to "new yourk". Anyway, Acare and I were not feeling sick at all but the rough seas and infinite darkness were no fun. There comes a time when excitement can turn to fear and although i hadn't reached that far, the feeling would slip in now and again as we climbed a big wave heading out to the "Barbuda Bank" in the pre dawn darkness.

Friday, October 12, 2007

On our way to nevis


After, much preparation we are ready to power down to the Nevis Fishing Tournament later today. There seems to be about 4 or 5 boats from Antigua going down and our Arawak Odyssey will be the last to leave Jolly Harbour as its doing the Eco Tour today.
Just exactly as windguru.com has been saying for the last week, the winds have picked up and its gonna be a rough weekend for the Adventure Antigua fishing team.
Its only a one day tournament so after we clear in customs and immigration, we will have a good sleep before leaving port in Nevis in the dark tomorrow morning. We are looking for big wahoo fish which will mostly be taken by The Four Seasons Hotel there after the tournament. One of our crew "cousin Ross" is seen here with a decent wahoo caught earlier in the week:


Oh boy the winds outside are blowing! There are one or two of the crew who will be popping sea sick pills later today. Anyway, we could use the chum tomorrow. (just kidding) I hope they are not sick out there between Nevis and Barbuda which is where we hope to be catching the big ones. Wish us luck. I will give a report when i get back on sunday or monday. Have a good weekend.

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

The Antigua Island Blog turns one year old!!!!!


yup, one year ago today i posted my first blog entry while sitting in Antigua bored out of my mind. Since then plenty has gone on and plenty has changed. ITs been a fun year for me and i hope for those of you who have kept up with reading the blog from time to time.
Some of the blog entries had so much interest that i was actually shocked by the response. For those of you that missed the story of Adventure Antigua you should go back and have a read. They are not in order in this link but just goto the bottom and read your way up. I think that they were the most eagerly read of all my entries. I don't have any plans to stop writing anytime soon, but hope to have guest writers ad some content from time to time over the next year which i think will be a busy one for me with many new adventures in store. This weekend we will be setting off as i said yesterday on an adventure over to St. Kitts and Nevis for a fishing tournament. More of the same i guess, but there are plans in the works for a new and exciting project which i hope to involve you all.
A new addition to our Adventure Antigua fleet is going to be built over the next 12 months and we will keep you up to date with that as i feel that it will be extremely exciting.
ITs not going to be like the yacht seen in the moonlight above but it will be nice. For now, i'd just like to thank all the regular readers. I wish you would say hi more often in the comments section this year. Dont be shy! Stay tuned for our nevis adventure coming soon.

Monday, October 08, 2007

Our fishing team is looking for some help.


Fishing team Adventure Antigua is once again planning a trip all the way down to Nevis to take part for the third time in their annual fishing tournament. Each year our team clears customs and immigration here in Antigua and sets off for the Nevis tournament with hopes of bringing the big trophy home. The first year we finished second there and last year we placed third missing second by 2 lbs.
Usually there are about 25 to 30 boats from the nearby islands, and for the past few years it has been St. Kitts and Nevis who have kept the winning trophy in their country. Its going to come to Antigua if Team Adventure Antigua has anything to do with it, but going to the event and representing Antigua and Barbuda is an expensive endeavour.

As its only a one day tournament the expenses are not going to be too terrible, but the fuel costs of getting there and back are significant. We are currently looking for sponsorship that could help cover our costs for this tournament. In our last tournament we were called Team Xtreme Caribbean Real Estate thanks to sponsorship from JHR Caribbean. We gave them a little banner ad on our blog for three months as a thank you for their support. I know that many referral hits went from our blog to their site, and trust that helping us worked well for them. We are looking for help once again, so if you are reading this and have any ideas of websites that could use a little extra traffic please put us in touch. On average we get 200 hits per day with all sorts of google searches reaching our blog pages. Remember we have one year of pages each with its own tags and content. A blog is unlike a typical website because each entry is a page of content that search engines can use. I check my stat counter info and see all the searches people google to get to us. Its not just on things related to Antigua either. Do a search for the famous hat company tilly by googling "tilly hats on boats" or maybe "Hurricanes and Jolly Harbour" or even "shark attacks in antigua". The list of key words that eventually bring people to our blog is growing and growing every time i write, and there is plenty opportunity of referral business for some of the traffic to be refereed your way. Anyway, if you are reading this and not interested in all this blatant business talk then come back tomorrow and something more like my other blogs will be back up, but if you are interested in getting some extra traffic to your site, please email me at elifuller (at) hotmail (dot) com . Thanks, eli.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Autumn fishing trips


Some people often ask how i can be a supporter of sport fishing on one hand and a proponent of environmental and fisheries protection on the other. It's a good question and many people ponder this one. If you look on my flickr photos, you will see pics of me cleaning up the shore and trying to stop uncontrolled fishing on the reefs and then a pic of my boat with a dead tuna on it.

Why am i killing fish one day and wanting fish protected another. I agree this seems a bit strange but if you understand the specifics of the fishery as well as follow carefully what i am saying then you will see that i am not against fishing. What i am, is against uncontrolled fishing here in Antigua and Barbuda. Each year we learn more and more about the species which are targeted in our waters and many decisions and practices of informed fishermen change as the information comes in. Of course there are many fishermen who don't care at all about threatened species and keep targeting them. I have done almost every type of fishing there is during some time in my life as crew and on my own. I have spear fished, netted, long line fished, fish trapped, cast from shore, bottom fished, trolled, fly fished, used lobster snares, collected conch, cockles. You name it and i have done it, but in addition to all of that i have been very interested in learning about and keeping track of how these methods of fishing affect the fishery and environment as a whole. Some of the methods above target species with very specific catches and without much by catch. Other types as in the case of net or fish traps, there are a huge range of fish including many useless species (by catch) are caught. Learning about the different methods used here and others not yet adopted here, as well as the learning about the species caught has given me my own point of view. There are many species which have been over fished in my lifetime without hope of returning in any great numbers, and there are other species in the fishery which are being caught at higher rates than they can reproduce. I personally love eating fish, and think that catching and eating fish is part of my Caribbean culture. This doesn't mean that i go out there and catch whatever i see first. Targeting species that are not threatened and that can handle the type of fishing methods we use is something that i think makes a difference. Sustainable fishing is something that the Ministry of Fisheries has no clue about and because of extreme Japanese influence here, this probably wont change anytime soon. When i go deep sea fishing with my crew, we target mahi mahi (the species most able to withstand commercial fishing), wahoo, and some types of tuna. Most other fish that we catch are released including all bill fish. We kept one large marlin in a tournament once in my life, but have released all others. Tournaments have stringent rules about what fish are allowed to be kept and each year they seem to become more eco friendly and progressive with their rules and regulations. Conservation issues are usually brought up by people within the sport fishing circle and many if not all "rules" are self imposed. This isn't something unique to Antigua either as the recreational hunting and fishing sectors all over the world have pioneered conservation fights. Not only are these conservation issues brought up and discussed by sport fishing associations, but in many cases, it is these associations that bring conservation issues before the authorities eventually getting things changed. This past weekend we went to a one day fishing tournament over in our friendly neighbor island Montserrat. We used the Arawak Odyssey boat (seen here on another fishing trip).

Like smugglers, we left Jolly Harbour at 3:00 am under the cover of darkness heading for Havers Shoal 38 miles away. We arrived just before lines were permitted to go over the side and there was glimmer of light showing in the East. Unfortunately, the winds were stronger than forecast and it was quite choppy. Our team consisted of yours truly, Tony, Ross (my cousin who is now working with Adventure Antigua), Big John, and Toby (who both fish with us regularly). This sea mount way out in the ocean usually produces some good catches and other boats started to appear before long. By the end of the day there were 5 boats who had five allowable fish each. This included our boat and we arrived in Little Bay, Montserrat to clear customs and immigration and then go to the weigh in. As it turned out, we didn't win overall, but enjoyed the hospitality. The poor island still has a massive volcano constantly erupting and keeping people all on one side of it. Anyway, nothing much happens there and the fishing tournament there was a big event. Goat Water which is their national dish was being given out to the crew and lots of alcohol was being consumed. It was quite a party, but we knew the rough seas out there would not permit us to relax properly until we got back to home port. As soon as we had our meals, we said our goodbyes and thank yous and set off together with "Nicole", my uncle's boat, towards Antigua. The seas were right on the nose and we let uncle Nick go ahead of us as the sun set over Redonda in the West. The waves were big and the spray was cold. We had 28 miles to go. I thought about doing the passage the opposite way back in 1984 on my windsurf board. Wow, feeling the spray against my face and the rough waves penetrating all the way up into my bad knee, i couldn't help feeling a million years older than i was back on that windsurf board at twelve.

Nevis fishing tournament is on October 13th.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

the mangrove eco system under threat too


An integral part of our Eco Tour is showing people the mangrove plants within the North Sound and how they sustain life there within that diverse and delicate ecosystem. There are several types of mangrove plant living in Antigua and Barbuda and as a life form they ares so unique and important that i think i will try to cover a tiny description here on this blog. I am not a marine biologist so this description is based on my life experience and info i have taken from the net.
To me, the most interesting of the mangrove plants is the red mangrove with its long thin roots that reach into the water as if they were long fingers. This website has a pretty simple but good description of what they look like and how they live.
What i tell people on my boat is that the red mangrove habitat serves several key purposes with its roll as a massive nursery being most important. A massive range of aquatic organisms are sustained within the marine side of the mangrove ecosystem from microscopic fish larvae at the bottom to large predator fish at the top of the food chain. Most of the inshore fishery around our island is sustained at entry level by the mangrove habitat. Many people wouldn't realize that fish that are not typically found in mangrove systems rely on other fish that wouldn't exist if it were not for mangroves. It is one massive symbiotic system with relationships spanning far and wide with the marine ecosystem as well as far outside the marine side of things. Areas which have lost all of their mangrove systems have had other systems and their wildlife seemingly unrelated fall apart. Another good site which shows the basic relationships and importance of the mangrove system can be found here.


Sometimes the water is so clear in a mangrove habitat that you can see the little fish hiding in and around the roots. These little fish are staying safe and feeding in the protection of the roots only to leave the area once they have matured and gotten big enough to look after themselves. Just this past Carnival weekend my girlfriend and i kayaked along a long section of mangrove as the sun set in Barbuda. We saw spotted eagle rays, snappers, barracuda, southern stingrays, pilchards, conch, sea cucumbers, anemones, oysters, grunts, surgeon fish and many others. This was without going below the surface. It was lovely and made me feel so lucky to just behold the workings and secrets of the mangrove system. Many of these fish were just waiting to change habitat and move to the reefs just outside the lagoon mouth. I am so glad that some parts of our government have decided to start playing an active roll in protecting the mangroves. Its taken some time and there is still so much more work to be done in other areas, but for now there seems to be a general push towards protection and better understanding.
If you are interested in seeing how it all comes together then i suggest going to a bit of the coastline that has mangrove or taking an eco tour. Its not all great news though and the fight to protect the mangrove eco system will continue. I hope that the fisheries department will be convinced by the DCA and Environment division that the use of gill nets in and around the mangrove system killing the wildlife that is supported there is almost as bad as cutting them down. These photos were taken today:

Another importance of the mangrove system is that of a massive filtration system. Sedimentary run off is a hazard which has caused and is causing corals to die all over the world. Corals need sunlight in order to stay alive when sedimentation covers them they die. Mangroves naturally filter sedimentation after rains preventing corals from being killed. When mangroves are removed from a drainage area like at Dark Wood beach, corals get damaged off shore. ITs that simple. Another reason to fight for mangrove protection is that the plants hold together fragile shorelines during storms and can even grow over "flats" or shallow seabeds eventually creating more land as if a buffer.

The flats alongside these mangroves below have slowly been getting mangroves covering it since the big hurricanes of the 90s.

The habitat in many cases can grow if allowed. It isn't aways easy though as Mr. Alan Stanford discovered at Maiden Island. His development company cleared much of the mangroves there when they first started their project as you will see if you read this article. Afterwards he hired people to replant the mangroves as you will see in this article. Since the report above was written, all of these plants died showing that it isn't always easy to replicate mother nature.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

ok back to fun stuff in september


Well i decided to let the last blog entry "soak" a few days longer than normal, and the good news is that The Daily Observer printed the article in today's paper. I hope that the next step is as fluid with someone in the top echelon of the government making bold steps to protect our beaches. There has been plenty of discussion about this topic within my circle of friends and you should hear the allegations and conspiracies. I'd rather not point fingers at political figures, but there are some strange irregularities in Antigua and Barbuda with respect to sand and the mining of it. Anyway, i will leave that to the the rest of the gang. For now its back to tourism and all the stuff that is closely related. Something that is always on the minds of people at this time of the year is the threat of a hurricane. Tropical Storm Karen revved up her engine this morning and is set to pass the entire island chain this weekend. Good news again with another storm set to miss Antigua. The weather lately has been awesome for powerboating and fishing with lovely calm seas. Its crazy how when its like this rain can be extremely heavy but localized. I took the photo above on Sunday 20 miles east of Antigua and looking at it you would never have guessed that there were areas on that little island (antigua) getting soaked with rain. Anyway, it turned out being a nice day all over the area once again. I went fishing three times last week and ate three different types of each night. Yum..

Today we had a very cloudy day here on Antigua though with some rain due to a passing tropical wave. This weekend looks like it will be perfect for boating again with very calm seas in the forecast as if the storm will be pulling it all north away from the island. On Saturday there will be a fishing tournament in Montserrat which i think the Adventure Antigua Team will be attending. Will keep ya posted. This nice vid was done by our core fishing team member John Watt a.k.a. "Big John" and shows some of the fishing action from last sunday.
Note the proper technique below shown by el "El gran Jefe Toro". hahahaha







Friday, September 21, 2007

why would the government actively destroy a beach?


I am going to write this one as a letter in the hopes that either the Sun or Observer papers will carry it. If they would like to carry it and any of the photos (in high res) then they can call me on 725 7263:


Dear editor, i wrote a long entry this week in my http://www.antiguaisland.blogspot.com/ blog about how badly i think the UPP government is doing when it comes to maintaining our beaches which by the way are in terrible shape and getting worse. The five main government institutions that should have something to do with protecting our beaches are the ministry of environment, ministry of tourism, fisheries, public works, Development and Control Authority....... the problem is that each is filled with horrible red tape and just cant cooperate with each other working towards common goals which are best for the county. The health and therefore maintenance of our beaches is essential for our survival as a nation. Why the ALP and now the UPP cant see this is beyond understanding. Beaches all over the Caribbean have been made and or maintained using barbuda sand. Can you imagine that some islands which didn't have a nice beach now have a lovely one thanks to sand from our country yet we here have lost beach after beach with little or no consideration. To me, it is hard to understand how beaches are allowed to be destroyed. Some would have said that the ALP would have let anything in our country get destroyed without much care, but i am saddened to see that it is not a political thing. There is something wrong with all of our leaders past and present that they are ignoring beach maintenance and or destruction and in some cases as i will now describe that they are allowed to actively destroy a beach.


Each time there are big waves hitting our shores there are beaches that have problems.
The barrier reefs are now lower as i describes in my last blog entry and more wave action and higher sea levels are washing sand up from the beach onto land behind the beach or even into ponds behind beaches.
Since beaches are of critical importance to our nation one would assume that huge amounts of sand being removed from a shoreline would be a big deal. Instead, after all the storms the sand which is now no longer on beaches is removed by people. One of the main reasons OJ's beach bar is now OJ's rock bar is that the property owners up and down that beach have been removing sand after storms since Hugo. OJ can tell you how many truck loads of sand got taken away from the properties near him. A staggering amount of sand. If you read my previous blog entry then you would know why this sand isn't just replenishing itself. We haven't had any major beach event like this during the UPP administration until Hurricane Dean passed way to our south. Although we had little weather from Dean we did get massive waves pounding our south facing beaches for about 24 hours. Massive amounts of sand were pushed from the beach onto areas behind the beach in quite a few places. This happened to other beaches in the past but this time it was the south coast that was hit. Windward Beach was worst, with Rendezvous Bay being another, Johnsons Point beach (near OJs) another and Darkwood another where sand was pushed under the new bridge. The very next week sand started going missing in bucket loads from Windward Beach. I haven't been there since then so i am sure that it is worse. The property which is for sale on the road between OJ's and Blue Heron hotel had the sand that washed up onto it removed too. The worst however was and is Darkwood once again. Darkwood beach has had hundreds of truck loads of sand taken from it since Hurricane Hugo and all with the permission and in most cases with the management of the Public Works department. After once such storm the mining of sand was so severe from the swamp behind that to this day the swamp hasn't caught itself. The beach now has more rocks than ever and when you compare old photos or video the new Darkwood looks like a different beach. One would have thought that the UPP would have been wiser. After i noticed huge piles of sand washed under the bridge at Darkwood I immediately called the Ministry of Environment to uge them to push the sand back onto the beach. I was told that they have no jurisdiction over sand and couldn't do anything. They said that the only people who could touch the sand was Public Works. Public Works! Great! Sure enough, it was public works that once again started trucking this same sand away from Darkwood the next day. Click on the image for a larger version:
In fact they have been doing it for weeks since Dean. Look at this photo. You can Click on it to see the large version. Sand in any high tide or big swell will wash under the bridge (which by the way they try as hard as they can to keep unblocked by sand so that the sand can wash through easily) and once its off the beach then it can easily be trucked away. Why easily? Well easily because our nation and its leaders thinks that once sand is not on a beach then it can be moved away to be mixed with cement. Hard to fathom the mentality but i would like to take this opportunity to ask the Minister of Tourism Harold Lovell and the leader of the nation Prime Minister Baldwin Spencer a question. Why are you sitting by and allowing the destruction and mismanagement of the most important thing that we have in Antigua? I would think that as intelligent people, you can see that laws and policy need to be changed so that our beaches are better protected and managed. I can only think therefore that this whole issue has slipped you by. Please do something about it. My dad, John Fuller, told me that the Environment Division was incorrect by saying that they were helpless. According to him, the chief Environment Officer, in this case Diane Black Lane, has the authority to declare a situation where sand is washed off a beach during a storm, an "environmental disaster" and then have the authority to return the sand to the beach. No person or institution should be allowed to take sand of any amount from a beach in our country. If the UPP think that taking sand from Barbuda's mine is bad then they have to agree that taking sand from our beaches is worse and must be stopped.

Eli Fuller



Wednesday, September 19, 2007

UPP fails to stop beach destruction


Now i am going to try to write this blog without getting too heated and upset. Already the headline, of this blog will raise blood pressure and upset some, but after you read this blog, the other one i wrote last week, and the next one i write, you may understand why i feel the way i do. The UPP leaders have way more to do.

Long before i started my little Eco Tour i have felt that one of the most important areas to protect are our beaches. After all without any "parent" country subsidising our existence as many of the other islands across the Caribbean have, our one true resource which we have dominion over is our beaches. Roddy Grimes-Graeme, owner of acquafilms and my good friend, commented after reading one of my blog entries, that we in Antigua and Barbuda exist in a "tropical beach economy". Our GDP is almost all based on tourism and our type of tourism relies mostly on white sandy beaches. Antigua was made famous in the early years of tourism because of our wide and long sandy beaches. Most people still have that perception which is great. Of course there are many other islands nearby which have lovely beaches, some nicer than our own. Don't dare tell an Antiguan that there is a nicer beach in St. Martin, Virgin Gorda, St. Barts or Anguilla...... People here who haven't travelled around the Caribbean think that not only are our beaches super healthy, but that they are far far superior than any others anywhere in the Caribbean.
This notion is based simply on ignorance unfortunately and has lead to the endemic problem of complacency. Old Pappa Bird "the father of the nation" ingrained into people's minds that tourists had to come here because we had the best beaches and the only proper airport. Both now have turned out not to be true. He would never have believed that St. Lucia would be a tourism powerhouse when all they had when VC Bird was in power was farming. The fact of the matter is that our not only has our ALP and UPP governments not put money back into beaches, but they have allowed the same beaches to degenerate.
I guess i should point out several ways that beaches can be destroyed. All of these are happening in Antigua and Barbuda.

1. The easiest was to kill a beach is to take sand from it. This happens daily in Antigua in many ways from the common man taking a bucket of sand to use at home when mixing a little cement, to heavy mining with backhoes and trucks. River sand is readily available from several areas in the Caribbean basin, but we here still use beautiful white sand when mixing cement. Crazy but true. There was a time when anguilla used its sand in the same way. They now like islands from Puerto Rico to Barbados buy sand form time to time from Barbuda.

2. A less obvious beach killer which is incredibly common in Antigua is the construction of groins or stone jetties. Sometime in the 50s the US Naval Base built a stone jetty on the North side of Dutchmans Bay in Coolidge. Shortly afterwards my grandfather built one at the other end of the bay to give more protection for his little boat. Immediately the flow of water in the bay changed and sand from the middle started migrating to the bases of the jetties making the water more shallow. We have a video of my father, probably about 12 years old diving off a rock into deep water before the jetty was built. That rock is now high and dry and there is no deep water at all near the jetty. The middle of the bay lost so much sand that trees began to fall in even before we had the first big hurricane since the jetties were built. The hurricanes of the 90s did plenty of damage to the middle of the beach and also managed to erode the little stone jetties. Since then the sand stopped migrating as much and there seemed to be a stop of erosion from the middle until a few weeks ago when Jeff Hadeed a new property owner there decided to make it bigger by digging up the seabed nearby and using the dredge material to strengthen it. You can see the silting nearby too.
Stone jetties are constantly being pushed out into the water without the Government here stopping them. Just this past week, there was a huge one pushed out at the Blue Waters and Crosbies junction. This had no government permission. The silt that comes off those jetties is another problem which is related to the next beach killer.
3. Healthy reef systems are an essential part of a healthy beach. Without a good reef and its fish beaches do not get replenished. Antigua and Barbuda have one of the largest continental shelves in the Caribbean and herbivore fish like parrot fish (locally known as chub fish) graze all over the shallow shelves chewing bits of coral to remove algae. Algae are parrot fishes main diet and it is this same algae which if allowed to grow freely, will kill coral by taking it over. For a huge number of reasons Antigua and Barbuda has faced and is facing a mass death of its coral reefs. There are many man made factors which have lead to our reefs being wiped out and there is no reef protection at all as far as i am concerned. None at all. OK let me settle down before i get too upset..............deep breaths..........ok where were we? oh ya the relationship between reefs and beaches. OK so with a healthy reef there are a great many fish all living in a symbiotic relationship with the reef. They feed on the algae cleaning the reef keeping it alive. There are many other relationships in the reef which mankind has disturbed, but the most important relationship for this blog is the one between the parrot fishes and the reef. A healthy large adult parrot fish can make about 900 kilos (nearly 2000 lbs) of sand a year. This sand is excreted after the chewed up coral and algae mix has been consumed by the fish. Parrot fish are one of the most popular fish eaten by local antiguans since the red snapper have almost been decimated. Another commonly eaten fish doing the same job as parrots are surgeon fish seen here. Anyone who keeps fish traps or nets will catch these and "chub" fish. Here is a cool video about parrot fish.


 Populations of parrot fish have declined so much in my lifetime that i think some species have actually been made functionally extinct here. Other species are actively targeted by spear fishermen but are also killed in large numbers in fish traps and nets. Without hard core protection of parrot fish and other herbivore fish, our reefs can not be healthy and therefore our beaches can not be healthy. I could rant about the reefs and did just last week. Click on the spear fishermen below to get more stories on how they are wiping out parrot fish. These guys had about 150 parrot reef fish between the three of them (third guy is out the picture).
IT is horrible what has happened to them over the past 20 years because of our leader's negligence. Anyway, let me move on to another problem the beaches face.
4. Dredging is a Major problem in Antigua for a number of reasons which the governments have a hard time seeing. The most simple problem is that if you dig a big hole on the seabed..... it will get filled eventually by silt and or sand from somewhere else. Seems logical doesn't it? Apart from that the silting that dredging does kills corals. This has been studied to death and is not a big secret. Another problem with dredging is that certain algae which live on the shallow seabed have limestone skeletons which appear as sand when the plant dies. There are some beaches in the North Sound which rely heavily on this type of sand. There are also urchins which have similar skeletons making up some small percentage of sand too. The relationships are there and are all related to the health of beaches.


5. Beaches get eroded when the sea level at the beach rises and or when there is more wave action. The sea level is rising due to the polar ice melting. This can not be argued with either, so when our coral barrier reefs get damaged in storms and subsequent mismanagement we will have way more wave action on the beaches...
The healthy reef grows up protecting the beaches by blocking too much wave action and by adding more sand to the area in the process i explained earlier. The photo below shows a protected area with the barrier reef outside. The beach nearby has seen erosion recently as the level of the barrier reef dropped after being hit by hurricanes. Japan is actually growing coral in order to protect a small group of islands it owns. We don't even protect the coral here.
All in all, there are many obvious ways that a proactive government approach will help protect beaches. Recently the ministry of environment along with the planning commission have has taken steps to stop a few projects which have done naughty things, but there needs to be more cooperation between all the areas in government when beaches come into play. Take this crazy situation that happened this month: Actually, this blog is too long so i will speak about the insane situation tomorrow. for now here is the photo.